Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
